Starred review from June 15, 2015
After stints working with chef Marc Vetri in Philadelphia and as head chef at Marigold Kitchen, Solomonov developed a passion for Israeli cooking and his desire to show the full breadth of the cuisine began to take shape; he started his own restaurant, Zahav, in Philadelphia in 2008. Six years later, he won the James Beard award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region. Solomonov shares his story as well as his wide-ranging approach to Israeli cuisine in this impressive collection of recipes that are sure to challenge readers’ preconceptions. In addition to kibbe, kugel, latke, and rugelach, Solomonov offers chicken albondigas, the Spanish tapas standard; cashew baklava cigars; and the Chocolate Almond Situation, his riff on the flourless chocolate cake. To these stunningly simple dishes he adds deliciously decadent fare such as duck and foie gras kebabs, and beluga lentil soup with marrow bones. Solomonov isn’t one for showmanship (or waste—the juices from his Israeli salad of cucumber, tomato, parsley and lemon are added to gin to create an unusual martini), and virtually all the book’s recipes are within the reach of novice cooks. The reader’s biggest challenge will likely be mastering the ubiquitous tehina
sauce used as a foundation for hummus and as an accent in countless dishes. Readers with an adventurous palate and an open mind will be richly rewarded by this terrific debut. Agent: David Black, David Black Agency.
September 15, 2015
Solomonov, winner of the 2011 James Beard Award for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic, writes candidly about grief, addiction, personal struggles, and professional breakthroughs in a cookbook that blends autobiographical accounts with standout recipes from Philadelphia restaurant Zahav. Each of the nine sections (e.g., tehina, milk & honey) is named for a staple of Israeli cooking, and the kosher recipes that follow (e.g., Yemenite beef soup, Persian wedding rice, salt-baked leg of lamb) highlight numerous regional and cultural influences. Solomonov worked in a bakery near Tel Aviv before attending culinary school and applies his experience to a wonderful range of desserts and baked goods, including chocolate babka, cashew baklava cigars, and mom's honey cake with apple confit. VERDICT This contemporary Israeli cookbook is an excellent choice for collections that already include Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi's Jerusalem and Joan Nathan's The Foods of Israel Today.
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